Memphis, Tennessee
by Elmore Holmes
The city of Memphis is situated in the Mid-South region, where the cultures of the Southeast, the Midwest, and the Heartland overlap. The climate is generally mild, although the heat and humidity can be stifling in the mid-summer, and the winter sees its share of chilly, rainy days with a few sub-freezing days thrown in. But for several weeks each spring and fall, there is no place in the world with better weather than Memphis, Tennessee. And there is no better way to spend such an idyllic day than in a kayak or canoe on the grandest river in North America, the Mississippi.
The Mississippi is many rivers in one. In a typical year, the water level on the Memphis gauge varies from eight or ten feet below zero (usually in the late summer and fall) to nearly forty feet above (usually in the late spring)--that's almost a 50-foot range! When the river is low, the main channel is relatively narrow (though still quite big compared to most other rivers!), and sandbars are abundant. These sandbars are ideal spots to get out of the boat to stretch one's legs and have a Powerbar and a drink from the water bottle (or even a romantic picnic lunch complete with a bottle of wine), and they afford world-class views of the Memphis skyline. When the river rises above twenty feet, a whole new world opens up to the paddler: secondary channels and backwater areas which had been dry land at lower water are now available for exploration. The river even offers something for the whitewater playboater: at levels between 13 and 15 feet, a nice surfing wave develops where the river flows over a Corps of Engineers dike known as Holmes's Ledge.
The river's moods change with the weather, as well. On
a calm day, the river's surface is smooth, but not free of small boils
and squirrelly cross-currents. The river definitely takes some getting
used to and a minimum level of paddling competence is required, especially
for paddlers of surf skis and other tippy race boats. When the springtime
winds begin to blow from the south, get ready for some big-water action
on the high seas, especially when a few northbound towboats stir the river
into a furious, muddy, wind-driven froth.
Recreation and Fitness
In the last five or six years, paddlers have embraced the Mississippi, and now hardly a day goes by when one cannot see at least two or three (often five or six) kayakers out on the river. This number easily grows to over a dozen on weekends. This is the case in the rain and in the sunshine, in bitter cold and in searing heat, in tranquil calm and in raw, violent winds. Memphis paddlers are hardcore.
Why are they out there, day after day, throughout the year? Because they have discovered the rich and varied rewards that paddling offers. They love the "quiet time," the opportunity to commune with nature and escape the pressures of the modern world for a couple of hours. They love the sensation of gliding across the water in a well-designed boat. Of course they enjoy one another's company. And they appreciate the great fringe benefit of this activity, physical health and fitness.
Some in the Memphis paddling group are formerly sedentary folks who were looking for a way to get in better shape and saw kayaking as an enjoyable means to this end. Others have been successful in other sports and have simply expanded their athletic arenas to include the Mississippi River. The Memphis paddling group includes runners, bicylists, cross-country skiers, a whitewater slalom racer, and even a former member of the Dutch wildwater team.
The Mississippi River Trail, a road bike trail that follows
paved highways along the entire length of the river from Minnesota to New
Orleans, includes a section through the rolling alluvial countryside of
west Tennessee. One Memphis paddler, Joe Royer, is an avid bicyclist as
well, and he has popularized a workout that combines a cruise down the
river with a bike ride on the MRT. Leaving a bicycle on the dock at downtown
Memphis, one drives his boat to Meeman Shelby Forest, a state park on the
river some twenty miles upstream of Memphis. He then paddles down to Memphis
and the dock, and rides his bike back up to Meeman Shelby Forest to get
the car. Reasonably fit men and women take between three and four hours
to complete the entire workout, which Joe has dubbed the "Mississippi River
Challenge."
Racing
The first Saturday each May, Memphis plays host to the Outdoors, Inc., Canoe and Kayak Race, presented by Outdoors, Inc., an outdoor sports clothing and equipment retailer with three stores in Memphis and another up in Jackson, Tennessee. The race is the largest event of its kind in the southeastern U.S., and the 400-500 entrants each year represent the broad spectrum of paddling: they are surf skiers, marathon canoeists, wildwater racers, flatwater sprint racers, and touring boaters. At the front of the pack is the greatest flatwater K-1 paddler in U.S. history, Olympic gold medalist Greg Barton, who has won the race three times (1999, 2000, and 2002) and plans to return in 2003. Another former Olympian and a world championships silver medalist, Mike Herbert, beat Greg to win the race in 2001, and figures to be in contention again this year.
Memphis paddlers look forward to race day all year: they relish the challenge, and they want to make sure the Olympians don't walk away from their home river with any easy victories. Training gets serious around December, and throughout the wet, windy early spring they are on the river doing tempo sessions, long intervals, and short sprints. Though Mike and Greg have yet to lose to a Memphian, the medal podium is Memphis-heavy in most of the other boat classes.
Memphis racers usually enjoy a little down time after the Outdoors, Inc., race, but they find time to train for several other events during the year. In recent years, Memphians have attended the Bogey and Bacall Classic and the Rum Runner Challenge in the Florida Keys; the Captiva Classic on the Florida Gulf Coast; the San Juan Challenge near Seattle; several wildwater races; and various other flatwater, whitewater, and open water events. Last year a new race sprouted up about 50 miles outside Memphis: the Hatchie River Canoe and Kayak Race took place last September 28 near Bolivar, Tennessee, and is slated to run again on the same weekend this fall.
For anyone interested in racing sea kayaks or surf skis
or outriggers, there are few training sites more ideal than the Mississippi
River at Memphis. The downtown waterfront is on a protected harbor out
of the main current--the perfect place to work on stroke form, to sharpen
speed, and to warm up and cool down. Out in the main river, the paddler
will develop balance and confidence in every conceivable water condition
during the course of the year.
Flora and Fauna
The Mississippi River and its Memphis-area tributaries
flow through swampy bottomland that features dense deciduous forest--common
species include oak, willow, cypress, and tulip poplar. The water and woods
provide habitat for a diverse array of wildlife: on any given day, the
paddler will see mallard ducks, hawks, beaver, blue heron, turtles, deer,
raccoons, and even an occasional bald eagle. Things are busy beneath the
surface as well: several species of fish, which can sometimes be seen leaping
two feet or more out of the water, call the river home.
Local Culture
The Outdoors, Inc., race occurs on the same weekend as the Beale Street Music Festival, which takes place about a half-mile down the riverbank. This enormous festival complements several nationally-known performers with an eclectic mix of artists who represent the rich musical heritage of the region. Blues and gospel will of course be in abundance, and the savvy festival-goer will also find bluegrass and old-time country sounds, underground punk rock, sensitive singer-songwriters, and more.
Those who like to eat will not be disappointed at any
time of year in Memphis. A plate of pork barbecue (the best in the world,
period) tastes pretty good after several hours on the river. The quality
and variety of cuisine has not suffered from the increasing number of foreign
immigrants who call Memphis home, either. Indian, Mexican, Thai, German,
Chinese, French, and African fare can be found on the city's "A-list" of
restaurants.
More Information
There has never been a better time for paddlers to visit
Memphis, whether they are looking for a quiet, contemplative sojourn or
a serious training experience. Outdoors, Inc., has a wealth of information
on its website for anyone looking for adventure in the Memphis area. Visit
www.outdoorsinc.com and click on "Go Outdoors" to see descriptions of numerous
day trips on the Mississippi and its tributaries. The site also has information
on the 22nd Outdoors, Inc., Canoe and Kayak Race, coming up
this May 3.