Looking upriver from the Mississippi Greenbelt Park.  Photo by Martha Kelly.

 
A Wonderland of Canoe and Kayak Training and Touring

     Here's a map I drew of my home paddling water.  It's not to scale or anything, but it shows most of the places you can go during a typical downtown Memphis paddling session of a couple hours or so.  I suggest that out-of-towners cross-reference this map with a road map of the Memphis area.
     Like most maps, this one depicts bodies of water in blue, but there's actually nothing blue about the lower Mississippi--there's a reason people call it The Big Muddy!  The city of Memphis sits atop a bluff on the east bank of the Mississippi.  The west bank is low-lying farmland and hardwood forest in the state of Arkansas; this side of the river floods when the Mississippi rises above 30 feet on the Memphis gauge.  Just as the map suggests, Mud Island and President's Island are not really islands, and the fact that we call them islands is one of the many quirky pleasures of life in good old Memphis, Tennessee.
    A number of local paddlers, including me, keep their boats at the Harbortown Marina, which is the one in Memphis Harbor just north of the Auction Avenue bridge.  This marina is private, but good public access is available just across the harbor at the boat ramp beneath the Auction bridge.

     Each May (usually the first Saturday) we have a big race put on by Outdoors, Inc., a local outdoor sports clothing and equipment retailer.  It starts in the mouth of the Wolf River and finishes in Memphis Harbor at Jefferson Davis Park--about three miles.  This race has grown to a field of over four hundred competitors, and that makes for one exciting atmosphere at the starting line and a great post-race party in the park.  For the next race date and information on how to register, visit www.outdoorsinc.com.
     As for my everyday routine, a lot of days I paddle from the marina up to the mouth of the Wolf and back.  This is about a 90-minute session that takes me into all different kinds of water conditions.  Another place I like to go is over to the west side of the Loosahatchie Bar near Holmes's Ledge; this one also takes about 90 minutes, and the wooded environs over there, populated by birds, beavers, turtles, deer, coyote, and other wildlife, offer a nice respite from our big-city concrete.
     For a longer session, one can paddle farther up the Wolf to points that are off this map, or do a lap around the Loosahatchie Bar.  If you don't mind running a shuttle, you can go about 20 miles north of downtown Memphis to Meeman Shelby Forest State Park and paddle down from there, or paddle down to Tunica, Mississippi--that's about a 40-mile trip.  There's really no limit to where you can go except your time and imagination.
     If you look on the map between the Loosahatchie Bar and the Arkansas shore, you'll see a place called Holmes's Ledge, which is actually a dike built and maintained by the Corps of Engineers.  (It's named in honor of the intrepid Mississippi River explorer who discovered it.)  When the river gets between 12 and 15 feet on the Memphis gauge, water flowing over the ledge forms some pretty good surfing waves for whitewater boaters.  River gauge readings are published daily on the back page of the sports section in our local newspaper, The Commercial Appeal.

A word about safety:
     I don't recommend the Mississippi River for the beginning paddler.  Although on a calm day most of the river seems like little more than a big, slow-moving lake, the current is really quite swift and there are some dangerous spots--hydraulics, moored barges, industrial debris-sieves--that only an experienced paddler, well-versed in river-flow dynamics, can easily identify.  The river also demands fitness and stamina of those who wish to paddle it--even an experienced paddler can find himself overcome with exhaustion in hostile territory if he is not in reasonably good shape.
     The size of the river makes hypothermia a serious threat, as a swimmer who cannot regain control of his boat will be in the water for a long time.  The rule of thumb for whitewater paddlers is to be wary of hypothermia whenever the sum of the air temperature and water temperature (Fahrenheit) is less than 120, but because a Mississippi swim is likely to last much longer than a swim on a smaller whitewater river, paddlers here should be extra-conservative with this reading.
     If you're just starting out in canoeing and kayaking, be patient and invest the necessary time to become familiar with your boat and paddle and the way moving water works.  Stay on lakes and smaller rivers for a while (or in Memphis Harbor, which is just like a lake), and work hard to achieve the skill and fitness the Mississippi demands.  When you feel ready to venture out onto the mighty river, pick a calm day and go with an experienced Mississippi paddler.  Above all, don't give up!  Every good paddler was a beginner once upon a time.

     I hope everybody reading this page will come away with a greater appreciation for our incredible natural treasure.  The following photos depict just a few of the river's moods.


Gulls flock overhead on a frigid February day.  Photo by Joe Royer, shot from the mouth of the harbor looking downstream toward the Memphis-Arkansas (Interstate 55) Bridge.
 


The downtown Memphis skyline provides the backdrop for Martha Kelly as she negotiates an eddyline caused by a Corps of Engineers dike.  Photo by Elmore Holmes.
 


The view of the Memphis skyline from the southern tip of the Loosahatchie Bar.  Photo by Joe Royer.
 


On a pretty day when the river is below 12 feet or so, the "West Palm Beach" sandbar is a nice place to have a picnic and gaze at the Memphis skyline.  Martha Kelly took this photo on such an outing in 2004.
 


If racing's your thing, you'll find it on the Memphis riverfront.  Andy Balogh, Vincent Ciaramitaro, and Elmore Holmes line up for the Maria Montessori School Regatta in Memphis Harbor in April, 2005.  Photo by Martha Kelly.
 


A winter sunset during a trip from Memphis to Tunica, Mississippi.  It's a little hard to see in this low-res image, but there's ice on the deck of the boat.  Photo by Joe Royer.
 
 

To see more photos of life on the Mississippi, click here.
 
 

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